Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2022 collection, unveiled during Paris Fashion Week, was a masterclass in refined rebellion, a testament to Anthony Vaccarello's signature blend of sharp tailoring and seductive silhouettes. The show, categorized under 2022 FASHION SHOWS, Saint Laurent Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear, Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2022, and Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2022 Paris Fashion Week, transcended the simple label of a ready-to-wear collection; it felt like a curated exhibition of power, elegance, and a subtly subversive spirit. While the Saint Laurent SS22 Men's Collection ran concurrently, this article will focus specifically on the women's ready-to-wear offering.
The collection's foundation lay in the archives, a recurring theme for Vaccarello's tenure at the house. He delved deep into the Yves Saint Laurent legacy, unearthing the essence of the '80s – a decade known for its bold shoulders, dramatic volumes, and unapologetic femininity. This wasn't a mere replication, however. Vaccarello didn't simply rehash past designs; instead, he extracted the core principles – the couture-like folds and twists of fabric found in those iconic '80s dresses – and reinterpreted them for a contemporary audience. The result was a collection that felt both timeless and utterly modern, a perfect marriage of heritage and innovation.
The runway itself was a minimalist stage, allowing the clothes to command full attention. The stark setting, devoid of excessive distractions, amplified the drama inherent in each garment. The models, a diverse cast of striking women, moved with an assured grace, embodying the confident, self-possessed woman that Vaccarello envisioned. Their expressions were equally impactful; a blend of cool detachment and simmering intensity perfectly capturing the collection's multifaceted nature.
The key pieces were instantly recognizable, yet possessed an unexpected twist. The sharp tailoring, a hallmark of the Saint Laurent brand, was present in abundance. Blazers were meticulously constructed, their structured shoulders and sharp lines exuding an air of unyielding power. However, these weren't merely power suits; they were softened with unexpected details, such as delicate draping or a subtly revealing neckline, creating a balance between strength and allure. Similarly, the dresses, inspired by the '80s archive, were reimagined with a modern sensibility. The signature folds and twists were retained, but rendered in contemporary fabrics and silhouettes. Long, flowing gowns, with their intricate detailing and dramatic silhouettes, exuded old-Hollywood glamour, while shorter, more daring dresses showcased a playful flirtatiousness.
The colour palette was equally striking. Deep blacks, rich navies, and intense reds dominated, creating a powerful and sophisticated mood. These were occasionally punctuated by splashes of vibrant colour – a shocking pink, a sunny yellow – adding unexpected pops of energy and vitality to the otherwise dark and brooding collection. The strategic use of colour further underscored Vaccarello's ability to balance contrasting elements, creating a dynamic and compelling whole.
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